The Oil Cleansing Method
I’m slowly but surely turning into a hippie. I fully give you permission to slap me in the face if I start wearing hemp ponchos and smell like patchouli. (If you’re a hippie and you wear hemp ponchos and smell like patchouli, I’m sorry. I’m sure you’re a very nice hippie.)
Anyway, you know how I treat my body as far as what I put in it and how I work it. I eat as cleanly as I can – organic, grassfed, pastured meats and dairy, lots of vegetables, seasonal fruit, nuts and seeds – and exercise my body to its optimum performance almost every day.
But when my face started breaking out a bit recently due to a change in hormonal medication, I added more steps and products to my face cleansing/moisturizing routine. I started using an apricot exfoliant (for blackheads) and then washed with a morning burst cleanser in the shower and would follow up with a salicylic acid moisturizer. This scrubbing and acid would leave me with dry patches, so at night I would use an oil-free cleanser and a thick moisturizer.
And wake up with an oil slick on my face. Later, rinse, repeat. Literally.
And you know what happened with all of these things that were supposed to help? My face got WORSE. More blackheads, to the point where if you left me alone in a room with a fluorescent light and a magnifying mirror I would spend HOURS squeezing crap out of my face. Gross, but true. And on the surface, it seemed like I had pretty decent skin. But most people aren’t all up in my grill to see the giant size of my pores. Which is probably good because they’d likely fall into the craters.
So when I came across this post by my friend Liz who decided to start The Oil Cleansing Method (OCM) – washing her face with OIL – I was intrigued so I emailed her to ask for specifics. I mean, did it work? Like REALLY? While I waited for her reply, I started googling. It started to make sense.
Water does not dissolve oil. That’s pretty much common sense. So all of the face products need to have chemicals (soap) that dissolves the natural oil in our pores. This strips our faces’ natural moisturizers and leaves us dry so then we have to re-moisturize with more chemicals in the forms of creams and lotions. More chemicals and our skin is left struggling to balance. Skin, after all, is the largest organ we have. It did not evolve to function at its peak peformance by using drug store cosmetic washes. What we put both IN and ON our bodies truly affects this massive organ.
Oil dissolves oil. Remember high school chemistry? “Like dissolves like.” So the concept of the OCM is just that: using a combination of oils to dissolve the oil and draw out the dirt from our pores while simultaneously moisturizing. There are a lot of great resources (I will provide a list of links at the bottom of this post) explaining the different oils and which ones to use and why. Castor oil has antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties so this is the oil used to “draw out” the crud in the pores. Other oils are used to moisturize such as EVOO, grapeseed, jojoba, apricot, and almond.
So after I heard back from Liz with her recommendations, I decided to try it. I mean, it couldn’t hurt right? And HAD to be better than putting literally hundreds of chemicals a day on my face. I went to the store and picked up my supplies. Liz had recommended jojoba oil but my healthfood section only had Sweet Almond. Based on her percentages and my combination skin, I started with a 40% castor, 50% grapeseed and 10% sweet almond oil. I have read some threads on forums that suggested EVOO was too greasy and ended up counter-acting the castor oil and clogging the pores. This is why I chose the grapeseed
What you’re supposed to do is pour the oil into the palm of your hand, rub your hands together to warm it up and then work the oil into your face gently. I kind of make this a relaxing event. I shut the door and sit on the closed toilet, rubbing the oil in for a good 3-5 minutes, focusing on the areas of my face that need the most help: sides of my nose, my chin, and forehead. Then, I run the water quite hot and wet a clean washcloth, ring it out, and lay it on my face holding it in place until the washcloth cools.
I do this three or four times, patting each time and finally gently wiping the last time. That’s it! When it’s done, your face feels clean but there’s still enough oil to keep your face moisturized. I was really amazed after the first time at how cleanly it removed my eye makeup (oh yeah, add eye-makeup remover to the chemical list!) and how my face didn’t have that red, raw look after a face washing. And it was soft and glowy.
 Day 1, Before |
 Day 1, After (I changed my shirt so I wouldn't ruin my Very Cool Superwoman Shirt) |
I swear I’m not sad in that after picture, I was just trying to keep my face as steady and expression-free as possible so as not to create any wrinkles or lines. No one stole my puppy. And I’m posting pics of my naked face on the internet. Don’t I get a prize for that?
So far here are my observations. After two days it was clear I needed more moisturizing as I was getting dry patches, so I changed the ratio to 60% grapeseed, 25% castorand 15% almond oil. I also picked up some tea tree oil at the store as it is a natural antiseptic and can be used to treat ingrown hairs as well as help with acne breakouts. So I added a few drops of that.
I think I’ve found a good balance at least for now. As Liz told me and as I’ve read, I am seeing a little surge in breakouts. Nothing major like zits (well one, but that one was there before I started), but little blackheads coming to the surface. This was expected as the oils draw out the dirt in the pores.
Overall I’m very happy so far. No chemicals on my face, waaaaaay less money spent on products and I actually enjoy the oil routine every night. It’s calming and soothing and it’s like a little treat for some alone time for a few minutes. In the morning I just “wash” my face with the water in the shower. If I’m really gross after a workout, I’ve used a exfoliant of just plain baking soda which is surprisingly clean and refreshing. Although the morning I noticed the most redness was right after this cleaning, so I would only recommend it every few days at least at first.
If I feel dry or tight at any point in the day, I simply rub a tiny bit of the almond or grapeseed oil into the dry areas. Fixes it right up!
I’ve been taking pictures along the way each day and today is Day 5. Here are some more pictures for your reference.
 Day 1, after |
 Day 2 morning, still clear and good. |
 Day 4 morning, notice the redness on the side of my nose and under my eyes (dry patches). Also, slight breakout on chin. Used baking soda exfoliant in shower, maybe too drying? |
 Day 4, right side. Redness, dryness, slight breakout. |
 Day 5, after OCM rgimen. Notice skin looking better, redness reducing, pores look smaller. Slight breakout on chin and nose |
 Day 5 after OCM, slight breakouts (blackheads coming to surface). Ginormous zit on forehead was present before starting OCM and would probably be gone if I could just leave it the hell alone. Am treating with direct tea tree oil and trying not to mess with it. Fruitlessly, of course. Pleased with overall skin appearance. |
Here are some links for you to read more if your interested and as always, I’ll answer any questions you have. I’ll be updating regularly and will add this post and all others on the topic to their own page at the top of the site.
The Oil Cleansing Method original site
Acne.org: The Oil Cleansing Method Outlined
List of Oils for Nourishing Skin Therapy
So what are your thoughts? Questions?
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I’ve been doing it only at night and cleansing with Cetaphil in the am. Noticed a little dryness after my 3rd day and considering reducing the amount of Castor oil plus moisturizing with EVOO. No breakouts yet (fingers crossed!).
I’m enjoying OCM too. Thanks for sharing!
Get outta mah head, woman!! Check out the last few lines of this post:
http://msdawnrose.wordpress.com/2010/12/31/im-turning-into-the-crunchy-granola-type/
I’m only on day 3, but so far it’s good.
I’ve been using olive oil and sugar in the morning for a couple of months now and it has made a difference to my skin especially with the dryness factor – makes a mess of my shower though!
I’m going to give the OCM a go though to see what that does for me. Thanks for posting this, as usual it’s most helpful.
It’s good to ditch the chemical laden crap as much as possible too.
I’ve been doing the OCM for about a year now and I love it. I actually don’t need to use moisturizer anymore which is another added benefit. My skin is normal in summer and dry in the winter and I use about a 80% grapeseed/20% castor oil mix. If you continue to get dry patches I would recommend continuing to cut back on the castor since even 60% seems like a lot to me. It took me about a month of tinkering to find the combo that works for me.
One of the best parts of the OCM is telling others about it and seeing their, uh, skeptical expressions. I’ve made a few converts though so I’ll keep preaching the good word.
I find this really intriguing, but I’m so damned product loyal. It’d take a lot of promises and delivery to get me away from my soap and Aveeno Positively Radiant SPF 15 moisturizer. I can give up sugar but not that stuff.
Use oil at night before bed and your cleanser in the morning. It is really relaxing and it is so so good for your face and neck. I’ve been using it for about a year and my skin has never been happier.
Oh, wanted to add that I actually really appreciate patchouli oil. I’d wear it every day if only people wouldn’t think I’m a stoner hippie.
Ha! It’s just so strong. I know as an oil it is a lot of benefits but the smell is just too potent. And yes, evokes “stoner hippie” associations. LOL
Psst. . . add a toner of pee and you will get even better cleansing and softer skin.
I noticed that they had all these products grouped together at Whole Foods the day you started this experiment. I almost bought it all but decided to let you guinea pig it a few more days first! If you still like it next week when I go back to Whole Foods I will pick up the oils for sure.
Great post! I just made the switch myself but am only using Jojoba Oil. I considered coconut oil but read many people had breakouts and I didn’t want to risk it. I immediately noticed a difference in my skin… the acne along my jawline was significantly less red and looked like it was healing. I’m only a few days in but love the effects. I’m realizing my skin problems might have more to do with the harsh chemicals I was slathering on than the foods I’ve been eating. I’ve been fully Paleo for 14 months but am still having breakouts.
Anyway, thanks for sharing! I’ll reference your post in a few weeks on my blog when I post about OCM.
What about makeup brands? Any chemical free ones you like?
Cara
primroseandpaleo.wordpress.com
Cara – I wish I knew of more natural makeups. I typically wear very little: just a light sweep of eyeliner, mascara and lip gloss. When I “go out” I’ll put on a little tinted moisturizer (Olay). I used to use Bare Escentuals but it made my face itchy! That was natural though and some people suggested maybe it was the brush I was having issues with. I never tried a new one to find out since now I work from home and rarely go out in public other than to children’s museums, supermarkets, and Crossfit. And those don’t really require much in the way of personal appearance. LOL
Anyone else have any ideas for natural makeups? I’d love to hear them.
I like Alima and Silk Naturals mineral makeup (both online). I had trouble with BE, too. They have something called Bismuth Oxychloride in their products. I’ve heard a lot of people develop itchiness and redness in reaction to this ingredient.
I highly recommend Beauty from the Earth cosmetics. I used to use Bare Minerals, but I after doing some research I switched to BFTE. Initially it was because BFTE mineral foundation was a lot cheaper than Bare Minerals, but one day I ran out of my BFTE foundation and had to use my old Bare Minerals and it made me itch! I didn’t realize that it irritated my skin until I switched to something better.
Bare Minerals contains bismuth, and it can irritate the skin. BFTE doesn’t use it, and they can custom mix you the right shade for your complexion.
This is amazing. I’ve personally seen castor oil cure a nuerological disorder (My dog involuntarily bobbles his head every now and then. Pretty freaky and scary. After a few days of wrapping his neck in a castor-oil soaked cloth, it stopped.). Why WOULDN’T we want to put something so magical on our faces?
Thanks for this post. And don’t worry–you’re not becoming a hippie, just more natural!
Oh, I forgot. An amazing natural exfoliant that’s way less drying than baking soda: mix sugar or salt in a mason jar with enough oil (I use EVOO) to make a paste.
I had a very similar problem a few years ago and have to admit to having taken a much much longer route than you to sorting out my skin. I really liked the oil wash that I used but it didn’t do miracles for me. I think that you are right to give it a bit more time before making an ultimate decision, although it seems pretty obvious in the photos that it is better than the scrub+acid thing.
My magic potion, if you will, turned out to be an AHA serum (I use the Nucelle products with Mandic acid to be really precise. I’m not sure what other brands use that particular acid). It is one of the most gentle acids and I think that my very sensitive skin would have a problem with anything stronger. It works by helping remove dead skin cells so that your pores don’t get blocked so easily, thereby limiting the number of blackheads that form. Like I said, I like the oil, but finally I’ve ended up just using the whole Nucelle line because I had such good results with the serum.
I’ve actually been using a Jojoba Oil product(Skin & Bones) on my face as an evening moisturizer for a few months with very nice results. I’m definitely considering ditching my Cetaphil for the OCM just to see if it makes a difference.
However, I’m still using Neutrogena moisturizer w/ SPF 30 during the day because I can’t not use sunscreen. What are people doing about sunscreen?
For sunscreen you can use zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. Check out this site:
http://chatter.thebeautybottle.com/showthread.php?t=80
I went there to research the OCM and discovered a forum for natural sunscreen.
I tried OCM and could never get it to work no matter what ratios of oils I used. It did make my skin really nice and soft, but I had more breakouts than ever.
I still use coconut oil as a makeup remover, but that’s it.
I had the exact same problem! I tried OCM for about a month and just went back to my old skincare routine because I couldn’t stand all the breakouts.
I keep hoping that I’ll find an answer as to why my breakouts got worse and, more importantly, a solution, but so far everyone else has only wonderful things to say about OCM.
I do feel a little better that I’m not the only one this happened to. ;)
I tried OCM for a while a few years back it like others, it wasn’t the miracle I was hoping for. But I haven’t figured out a few other things along the way. Turns out there is something in regular shampoo/conditioner that causes tons of tiny little pimples on my face and shoulders. I don’t know if it is actually the fragrance, but switching to fragrance free shampoo and conditioner cleared those little buggers right up. But the bigger thing is that I’m just more gentle with my skin in general. I only rinse my face with water in the morning and then apply my homemade moisturizer. I wash my face as gently as I can with soap only in the shower. Still at 31, my face isn’t clear, but this is the clearest it’s been since I was maybe 10.
You might want to look into Mountain Rose Herbs to get your oils. Their products are top quality and reasonably priced. I buy all my ingredients for my moisturizer from them, and in five years everything I’ve bought from them has been fabulous.
Oh, great tip Alissa, thanks! I am planning to order my next batch online and I’ll definitely check them out.
I think OCM is not the quick fix everyone wants it to be, I can already tell it’s going to take some hashing out and some time to find the right balance for me. Still, I have faith that – for me – it’s better than soap and other (store-bought chemical-laden) moisturizers.
Can I ask what brand of shampoo you use?
Surprisingly, Whole Foods store brand fragrance free shampoo and conditioner. It’s even affordable!
I gave OCM about a year of tinkering and then decided I’d had enough. But if it works for you, fabulous!
Theres no Whole Foods out here. WAH. And my local “hippie” store marks up the prices of everything so outrageously because they know they’re the only store like it nearby. Sucks.
I have a shampoo/conditioner recommendation. I purchase mine from Whole Foods, but it is available online.
http://www.organixsouth.com/theraneem.html
I use the Gentle Therape version and started with it because I was having issues with my scalp (flaky). That was over 6 months ago and my scalp is now perfect! The shampoo takes some getting used to because it’s very thin and always feels like it’s knotting my hair up. But following up with the conditioner smoothes everything out and leaves my hair unbelievably shiny.
Oh awesome! My scalp is UBER flaky and gross even though my psoriasis cleared up when I went grain-free. Do you use products in your hair at all? I have super fine hair so if I want to go out or have it look half decent, I have to put some product in it and I worry that’s screwing my scalp up too but don’t really have much choice. Unless I want to look like a homeless person.
My husband and I discuss the hippie-fication of Courtney pretty frequently :) It’s a dangerous line to toe, especially living in Montana with a Golden Retriever. Give me some granola and a Subaru and I’ll fit riiiiggghhhtttt in.
Anyway. Hmm. I’ve had SERIOUS acne since I was 12. Two rounds of Accutane, dermatologists on speed dial, and still, STILL I get pimples. Mostly small surface ones, but lots of blackheads too. And I pick them. Guilty pleasure?
But as my last round of acne meds is running out, I’m starting to think that putting chemicals on my face maybe isn’t the answer. I mean this stuff is so strong that I can’t use it while pregnant. But it’s okay to put on my face now?
I wasn’t sure which direction to go, but you’re making me think. My husband is going to think I’ve lost my mind.
Hippies unite!
Oooh, I’m so intrigued by this. I have also been going through my own hippification over the last few years. I don’t know, maybe those hippies were onto something ;)
My skin has never looked better since changing my eating habits, but I wonder if this would make it look any better. I may have to try it just to hear Garrett say “Seriously? What’s next?” just like he always does when I suggest something that sounds nutty and them BAM! Changes his life for the better…
Speaking of patchouli, I also think it is pretty foul, but recently I was gifted some Karma lotion from Lush (Patchouli + Citrus) and oh my god, if it is not one of the best things I have ever smelled…
I think it’s official. I’m a hippy.
I just started the Oil Cleansing Method 2 days ago. So far my skin is as smooth as could be. I’m going to give it 1 month and see if my acne goes away (which I’ve struggled with ever since my teenage years). I used 60% castor oil, 30% jojoba oil and 10% olive oil. So far it’s been working great on usually oily skin.
Ok I have to chime in about hair products and give a douchy shout out to Wen Cleansing Conditioner. Totally changed my life. Actually I’m going to post about it later this week. I have incredibly fine and limp hair (homeless hair, AndreAnna…haha) and after 3 months of using it, my scalp is no longer itchy, my hair feels thicker — but the kicker, I don’t use any styling products and my hair has a ton of body. All I do is blow dry with a round brush, just like the god damn infomercial says.
And now I sound like an infomercial. But it truly is awesome.
I HAVE heard good things about them too! Is there a period where your hair is kind of like greasy and gross at first? And it’s kind of pricey right?
I totally have the “fine/limp hair syndrome” where whenever anyone tells me about a hair product that will give me ANY kind of body, I buy it, immediately, regardless of price.
I’m not proud of it, but I cannot help myself. CANNOT. So, thank you, Holly, for my next hair purchase :)
I LOVE Wen. I also have psoriasis and it is the only shampoo that not only doesn’t aggravate it, but seems to calm my scalp. Even if it didn’t help the psoriasis, I’d keep using Wen because of how soft and shiny my hair is. Wen’s not cheap, but it’s far less expensive than any prescription topical you can get for psoriasis (and without steroids, of course).
What is a douchy shout out? Glad your hair isn’t homeless anymore.
Well, Chaz Dean wasn’t the first to suggest using conditioner to cleanse. The woman who wrote Curly Girl, I don’t remember her name, she suggested using conditioner to wash your hair years before Chaz Dean came up with Wen. It doesn’t have to be Wen. It can be another kind of conditioner. Just be sure to look at the ingredients before you buy. Wen works really well. But it stinks with menthol. I use Abba Moisturizing conditioner.
Sorry this reply is in the wrong spot…didn’t have a reply button available.
The only other product I use on my hair is a leave-in, overnight oil treatment once a week (if I remember to do it).
http://www.amazon.com/Dabur-Vatika-Coconut-Hair-150ml/dp/B000JWQ3NC/ref=pd_sbs_bt_1
That was purchased in a local market that caters to ALL nationalities, so that would also be an online purchase. When I first switched to the shampoo/conditioner and I also started with this oil treatment. I think the combo is what really kicked the flakiness in the butt.
I have VERY fine, straight and thinned hair (yay PCOS) but mine’s almost black, so people can see straight through my bangs and part to my scalp. I was thrilled when the flakes went away, but a side benefit has been the over all health of my hair. I haven’t gotten it cut in months and there are no split ends. It feels thicker, even though I can’t claim a miracle cure-all for the thinning at my scalp. And I’ve always had issues with it holding any curl without products, but that’s changed as well. I don’t go out enough to really test a full-fledged fancy hairstyle, but the little bit I do with the curling iron in the morning before work actually holds up all day now….with no hairspray! Sorry this was so wordy!!
Do you premix the oils or do you do it each night before cleansing? If you do premix how do you store the oils?
I need to do SOMETHING to help my face (huge pores, combo skin, blackheads with the occasional huge breakout) and I am seriously considering this. Also I am guessing you follow the same rules as normal cleanser and avoid your eyes and include neck and ear lobes?
I do pre-mix so I can measure the percentages and store in one of these little rubbermaid drink containers: http://images.orgill.com/200×200/1047984.jpg
OCM DID work miracles IMMEDIATELY for me, and my oily skin was awful with clogged pores (no zits), so there is hope. I only used jojoba oil, and within 10 minutes of massaging my face my pores were purging deeply embedded blackheads, dead skin cells, etc. like crazy. There was so much it looked and felt like I was using a scrub. By the third time the large pores were invisible except for very few stubborn (and now small) blackheads, and my skin was glowing. I can’t explain my results, obviously not everybody’s going to have such quick success but OCM definitely works, even though I had serious reservations about it. And I’m only using one oil, no tricky formula.
That is AMAZING! I’m glad you had such great results.
Thanks for the info- my fave skin is clear as a bell- but the sides of my back have Blackheads from Hell and NOTHING has worked to get rid of them. I’m going to try this for it- can’t hurt, right??
Hi there, I read in a previous comment that your makeup routine is very light. Mine is much more involved (both liquid and powder foundations most days). Do you think the oil cleansing method would still work? I’m petrified of falling asleep with makeup still on my skin…I don’t know if it’s relevant, but my skin is definitely in the dry family so the oil doesn’t scare me as far as that goes. Thanks! :)
Alright, I just did tried the OCM for the first time. I used 50% Castor oil, 25% EVOO and 25% Almond oil. I wanted to use grapeseed and jojoba but couldn’t find either at the store. I plan on keeping the almond oil but adding jojoba. I think…
So far I LOVE IT. I can tell that some of the “junk” is already coming to the top of my pores. I know I wouldn’t be able to not wash my face in the morning so I found a light face wash that contains jojoba oil and tea tree oil. I am hoping to maybe phase that out if I can continue on with this.
To mix mine I used a medicine cup. It was easy to measure out the ratios, and I didn’t want to make a batch until I could test some different mixtures. I mixed up 2 tsp which was way more than enough.
FYI, I’ve gotten all my oils online, organic and less $$ than a health food store. I don’t know if I can say where, but search vitamin sites.
I am trying the OCM for 3 months now and my skin couldn’t look better.
Please stop with the baking soda I tried that and it works up to a point until you really are damaging your skin.
If you want to really soothe your skin get cocconut oil and/or cocconut oil raw (in it’s natural form it is like a paste because of it’s consistency)
and mix all that with raw hempseed oil, unrefined cold pressed EVOO (probably from a middle-eastern store is where you’ll get this since you do want that settlement to know it hasn’t been unrefined)and lastly castor oil
mix these oils together into a little squirt bottle and apply every night for a NATURAL chemical peel and exfoliation place some apple cider with a ratio of 1:10
and use every OTHER night.
GOOD LUCK!!
This is the worst thing I’ve ever tried! I did OCM for about 2 months and ended up with really bad results. I used extra virgin olive oil and castor oil and kept them in a little plastic bottle. The first few weeks were fine and I thought that it was working. My face felt fine and I didn’t breakout. But a few weeks later I noticed that my cheeks and forehead were getting very bumpy and red. I never breakout on my cheeks so I was worried. Over the next few days, the bumps just got bigger and bigger and even spread to my neck and jaw. My mom even noticed and told me to stop putting oil on my face because I was just trapping bacteria underneath the skin. It looked like my face was just totally clogged up with oils.
I stopped doing this about a week ago and my face is slowly clearing up from that breakout. I’m using my regular facewash and clindamycin now. I still have some spots but not as bad as when I was on OCM. They are finally drying up instead of looking very fresh and red all the time. I think it’ll be about 1 more month til I clear up from this disaster. If you’re thinking about trying the OCM just be very careful and watch out for any breakout. If you keep continuing with it, your face could keep get worse til it’s too late to stop. Don’t do it! It really is the WORST THING EVER!